- Yak Chews vs Antlers: The Calorie Number That Made Me Sit Down
She said, "You just told us bully sticks are a flat no. And in that same note you said you stock yak chews and you like them. Both of those are hard brown sticks that a dog gnaws on for an hour. So which is it? Because from where I'm sitting it looks like you're against the one you don't sell."
That's a fair shot. I'd have asked the same thing. And so I told her I'd give her a real answer, not just a line. This is that answer.
Here's the thing about chews that folks don't always hear. The first hour is not where you tell them apart. In the first hour they're all wonderful. Your dog is quiet, he's busy, you're getting something done for once, and everybody's happy.
What matters is how it ends.
A bully stick ends badly, and there's not much you can do about it. It works down to a short, soft little plug — about the size and shape of something that can get stuck in a throat — and you've got a dog who put an hour into it and does not want to give it up. So your options are start a wrestling match, or walk away and hope. Neither one of those is a plan.
A yak chew ends differently, and it ends differently because you can make it end. That last stubborn nub goes in the microwave and comes out like a puff of cheese popcorn. Crunchy. Light. Gone in about ninety seconds. The risky piece turns into a snack, and the dog thinks he won.
And that's really the whole distinction. One chew has an ending you can manage. The other one has an ending that manages you.
Further down I'll show you exactly how we do the first one — and also the calorie number that made me sit down the first time I ran it.
THE NUMBER I PROMISED YOU
I told you a long chew is basically a meal in a stick, and that I'd put a real number on one. Before you scroll, take a guess. Medium yak chew. Regular size. About as thick as a fat crayon.
One medium yak chew
329 calories
More than half of a 25-pound dog's entire day.
Hold that up next to the treat table and you'll see why I sat down. A twenty-pound dog gets about 500 calories a day. A fifty-pounder about 1,050. So a twenty-five-pound dog is somewhere around 600. That chew is more than half of everything he's allowed to eat that day — and most people never count it at all, because it isn't a treat. It's a chew.
And then here's the twist, and this is why I still feel good putting them on the shelf.
Most dogs take about two weeks to get through one. Not two hours. Two weeks. And if you spread 329 calories across fourteen days, you're looking at about twenty-three calories a day. That's roughly half of one medium biscuit, or six baby carrots. It is nothing.
The chew isn't the problem. How fast they go through it is.
And that's what I want you to take away, because it's true of every long chew on every shelf: the calorie cost of a chew is all about how fast your dog finishes it. That same 329 is either a rounding error or half his day, and the only real variable is your particular dog and how patient he is.
So the dog you need to think about isn't the one lying on the rug still working on the same chew from Sunday. It's the one who takes it behind the sofa and comes out forty minutes later looking pleased with himself.
You already know which one you've got.
IF YOU ONLY DO ONE THING — WRITE THE DATE ON IT
When you open a new chew, write the date on it. Right on the chew. A Sharpie works fine, and it wears off as he goes, which I actually kind of like.
Now you've got an answer instead of a guess. Gone in two weeks? Wonderful — that's enrichment, it costs him about twenty-odd calories a day, carry on and don't worry about it. Gone in three days? That's about a hundred calories a day on top of dinner, and you've just found the thing the vet's scale has been trying to tell you about.
Same chew. Same shelf. Two completely different products depending on whose mouth it's in. The date settles it in a week, and it costs you nothing.
DID YOU KNOW? YAK CHEWS STARTED AS FOOD FOR PEOPLE
The yak chew was not invented by the pet industry. It was borrowed.
It's called chhurpi — a traditional cheese from Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet and that part of the Himalaya, made from yak and cow milk. They press it, they smoke it, they hang it until it's hard, and people have called it the hardest cheese in the world. And people eat it. Not as a novelty. As a regular snack, for generations, out on long walks at altitude. You don't bite it. You park it in your cheek, let your own saliva soften the outside, and work at it slowly.
One block lasts a person somewhere between thirty minutes and five hours. Which tells you something about why it takes your dog two weeks — and also why warm water before you hand it over is such a good move. Same idea. Just faster.
WHY WE STILL SELL THEM
We've been handing these across the counter for fourteen years now. And folks ask why we still sell them. Here's why they never left the shelf and none of these reasons are what the package usually says.
1. The ingredient list takes one breath to read
Milk. Lime. Salt. That's it. After teaching you to turn bags around and squint at the fine print, it is a real relief to hand you something where there's nothing to catch.
2. What's actually in it is protein
Roughly two-thirds of the thing by weight, with very little fat. And the fermentation does something useful on the way — it eats most of the lactose which is why dogs who can't handle a saucer of milk usually handle this without any drama.
3. Two weeks of having something to do
And this is the real one for me. Chewing is not a bad habit a dog needs broken. It's a job he's built for, and most dogs almost never get to do it. And a dog with nothing to work on finds his own project — usually your baseboards, occasionally the remote. That's the same reason our daycare runs structured enrichment instead of just opening a door and letting them mill around. A busy dog is a calmer dog at five o'clock. A chew is that idea in your living room.
What I am not going to tell you is that it cleans his teeth. You'll see that claim on plenty of packaging. I don't have good evidence for it, and I'd rather be honest with you than sell you a benefit I can't back up. Which brings me to the hard part of this article.
WHERE I STAND — THE HARD PART
Hard chews can crack teeth. I'm not going to pretend otherwise just because we sell one.
If you go looking at what veterinary dentists say about hard chews, you'll find bones, antlers, hooves, nylon bones, and yak chews all sitting on the same caution list. You'd find that out eventually, and I'd rather you heard it from me.
Here's why it happens, because it helps to understand it. Your dog's tooth enamel is thin — somewhere between a tenth of a millimeter and about one millimeter. Yours goes up to about two and a half. So he's carrying a fraction of your armor. And behind that thin enamel is a bite that has been measured in one study at up to 1,394 newtons. Teeth in the lab give way around 1,281.
Those two numbers are uncomfortably close, and that is basically the story of every cracked tooth I've ever heard about.
The tooth that usually goes is the big one at the back on top. And it often doesn't hurt in a way you'd notice. Dogs are stoic. They chew on the other side. And nobody knows for a year.
The test dentists use, and you can do it in the shop: press your thumbnail into it. If you can't leave a mark, and you can't flex it at all, it is harder than a tooth. That is true of a yak chew straight out of the wrapper. It is also true of marrow bones and half the things in the chew aisle.
So who shouldn't have one at all? The dog who doesn't chew so much as attack — the one who tries to crush rather than gnaw. Any dog who has already broken a tooth, because he'll do it again. Seniors with worn or fragile teeth. And puppies still on baby teeth, which are thinner still.
And here's where I actually stand, plainly. For most dogs, I feel like two weeks of real mental work is worth a risk you can manage — the same way a tennis ball is worth it, and a walk near a road is worth it. But "manage" is doing real work in that sentence, and the next section is how. If you'd rather not manage anything at all, that's a completely reasonable position, and I've got something softer for you further down.
HOW TO GET EVERY LAST BIT OUT OF ONE
Five rules. The first four are just ordinary good sense. The fifth is the one people email me about.
1. Buy it too big
Always. The most common mistake is sizing a chew to the dog's mouth. Size it so it's a little awkward. A chew that's too large is just inconvenient for him. A chew that's "the right size" is one he can eventually get behind his back teeth. When in doubt, go up.
2. Soak it first
Five to ten minutes in warm water before you hand it over. That's the chhurpi trick done the impatient way — they use time and their own mouths; you're using a mug. It softens the outer layer, which means less force on the teeth for the same amount of chewing. I'd do this every time, and especially on a new one.
3. Sessions, not all day
Twenty or thirty minutes, then it goes back up on the shelf. This is not about rationing his fun. Jaw fatigue is when the technique gets sloppy and the crushing starts. Also, it makes the chew something he looks forward to instead of furniture he ignores.
4. Be in the room
Not standing over him. Just in the room, with your coffee, where you can hear what's going on. Almost every chew accident I have ever heard about happened while everybody was somewhere else.
5. Retire the nub — and turn it into popcorn
The moment the piece is small enough to fit entirely inside his mouth, it is done being a chew and it has started being a hazard. Take it. Here's what to do with it instead of arguing:
1. Soak the nub in warm water for about 5 minutes.
2. Microwave it roughly 45 seconds (1000W). It puffs up like popcorn.
3. Let it cool 5 to 10 full minutes.
That third step is not optional, and I want to be clear about it. Most packages say two minutes. Two minutes is not enough — it comes out of there like molten cheese and it will burn a mouth. Give it ten, touch it yourself first, then hand it over.
What you get is light, crunchy, and completely harmless. Every last bit used, nothing thrown away, and the most dangerous ninety seconds of the whole chew turned into the best ninety seconds of his week. Dogs go a little crazy for it.
AND THEN THERE ARE ANTLERS
Antlers are the odd one here, because on calories they are almost a free lunch. Barely any of an antler ever gets swallowed — a dog scrapes at it and takes microscopic amounts — so unlike biscuits and yak sticks, this one genuinely doesn't need counting.
They're also the guilt-free one, which surprises people. No animal is harmed for an antler. Deer and elk grow a full set every year and drop them in the snow every winter, and somebody walks out and picks them up. It is one of the few products in this whole industry that is just found.
And while we're here, because it was the best fact I learned putting this together: antler is the fastest-growing bone in the world. A bull elk lays down about an inch of it a day. He builds an entire skeleton's worth of hardware on his head in a summer, uses it for a season, and throws it away.
Now the honest part. An antler is the hardest object in this article by a comfortable margin, and it's the item veterinary dentists name most often when they talk about cracked teeth. Everything in the section above applies double: thumbnail test, right dog, in the room, and off the floor the moment it gets short.
If you're going to use one, the split ones are the kinder choice — the marrow side is softer, the dog gets to the interesting part sooner, and he spends less of the session trying to crack a rod of bone. A whole antler with a power chewer is the version I'd steer you away from.
Zero calories is a real advantage. It just isn't the only thing on the ledger.
IF HARD CHEWS AREN'T FOR YOUR DOG
Some of you got to the thumbnail test and quietly decided no, and I'm not going to talk you out of it. If your dog is eleven, or has already lost a tooth, or is the sort who tries to bite through things rather than work at them, then a hard chew is a bad trade and there's no cleverness that fixes it.
So here's what I'd hand you instead. I'd rather name something than leave you with a warning and no replacement.
Easy Chew Snaps are the ones we keep for exactly this dog. They're thin and soft enough to snap in half between your fingers — which is the whole design and they run about ten calories a piece. Put that against the medium biscuit at forty and you can see the math doing you a favor: a twenty-pound dog's fifty-calorie day buys him five of these, or one cookie. And nothing in the bag is harder than his teeth.
For pocket-sized training rewards, freeze-dried liver Mojos still do that job better than anything — about eleven calories a piece, four of them inside a small dog's whole day. More on treat math here: https://hotdiggitydogresort.com/blog/dog-treats-10-percent-rule
And the free version, because it works: a good stuffed rubber toy, frozen. Take a few tablespoons of his own dinner, wet it, pack it in, and put it in the freezer overnight. You get forty-five minutes of that same absorbed, problem-solving quiet that a chew buys you, it costs nothing off the top of his day because it is his day, and there is not a hard surface anywhere in it.
The yak chews live on the shelf at the resort rather than online — have a look next time you're in, and if you're unsure about sizing, just give us a call: (760) 745-9900.
THE BOTTOM LINE
How a chew ends matters more than how it starts. Yak chews you can finish safely; bully sticks finish you. Count the calories by how fast your dog works, write the date on it, soak it, supervise it, and retire the nub into popcorn. And if hard isn't for your dog that's fine. Soft snaps, liver bits, or a frozen dinner toy will do the quiet work without gambling his teeth.
WANT THIS EVERY TUESDAY?
This started as Wagging Weekly — the note I send our clients every Tuesday on feeding, behavior, grooming, and canine health. No filler. Free. Subscribe: https://mailchi.mp/hotdiggitydogresort/sign-up
KEEP READING
How to Read a Dog Food Label: https://hotdiggitydogresort.com/blog/how-to-read-a-dog-food-label
Dog Treats and the 10% Rule: https://hotdiggitydogresort.com/blog/dog-treats-10-percent-rule
Dog Food Toppers and "Superfoods" — what held up when I looked: https://hotdiggitydogresort.com/blog/dog-food-toppers-superfoods-evidence
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
David DiLoreto is Certified in Pet Nutrition and co-owner of Hot Diggity Dog Resort in Escondido, California, which he has run for fourteen years alongside his wife Penny — Master Groomer and Certified Animal Behaviorist. He is the author of The Long-Life Dog. Hot Diggity Dog Resort holds a 4.9-star rating on Google and was voted Escondido's Best Pet Groomer in 2025.
Book: https://a.co/d/04l5ZqUH
This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary advice. Talk with your veterinarian and a veterinary dentist if your dog has broken a tooth — before choosing hard chews for seniors, puppies, or power chewers.I told you a long chew is basically a meal in a stick, and that I'd put a real number on one. Before you scroll, take a guess. Medium yak chew. Regular size. About as thick as a fat crayon.
One medium yak chew
329 calories
More than half of a 25-pound dog's entire day.
Hold that up next to the treat table and you'll see why I sat down. A twenty-pound dog gets about 500 calories a day. A fifty-pounder about 1,050. So a twenty-five-pound dog is somewhere around 600. That chew is more than half of everything he's allowed to eat that day — and most people never count it at all, because it isn't a treat. It's a chew.
And then here's the twist, and this is why I still feel good putting them on the shelf.
Most dogs take about two weeks to get through one. Not two hours. Two weeks. And if you spread 329 calories across fourteen days, you're looking at about twenty-three calories a day. That's roughly half of one medium biscuit, or six baby carrots. It is nothing.
The chew isn't the problem. How fast they go through it is.
And that's what I want you to take away, because it's true of every long chew on every shelf: the calorie cost of a chew is all about how fast your dog finishes it. That same 329 is either a rounding error or half his day, and the only real variable is your particular dog and how patient he is.
So the dog you need to think about isn't the one lying on the rug still working on the same chew from Sunday. It's the one who takes it behind the sofa and comes out forty minutes later looking pleased with himself.
You already know which one you've got.
IF YOU ONLY DO ONE THING — WRITE THE DATE ON IT
When you open a new chew, write the date on it. Right on the chew. A Sharpie works fine, and it wears off as he goes, which I actually kind of like.
Now you've got an answer instead of a guess. Gone in two weeks? Wonderful that's enrichment, it costs him about twenty-odd calories a day, carry on and don't worry about it. Gone in three days? That's about a hundred calories a day on top of dinner, and you've just found the thing the vet's scale has been trying to tell you about.
Same chew. Same shelf. Two completely different products depending on whose mouth it's in. The date settles it in a week, and it costs you nothing.
DID YOU KNOW? YAK CHEWS STARTED AS FOOD FOR PEOPLE
The yak chew was not invented by the pet industry. It was borrowed.
It's called chhurpi — a traditional cheese from Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet and that part of the Himalaya, made from yak and cow milk. They press it, they smoke it, they hang it until it's hard, and people have called it the hardest cheese in the world. And people eat it. Not as a novelty. As a regular snack, for generations, out on long walks at altitude. You don't bite it. You park it in your cheek, let your own saliva soften the outside, and work at it slowly.
One block lasts a person somewhere between thirty minutes and five hours. Which tells you something about why it takes your dog two weeks — and also why warm water before you hand it over is such a good move. Same idea. Just faster.
WHY WE STILL SELL THEM
We've been handing these across the counter for fourteen years now. And folks ask why we still sell them. Here's why they never left the shelf — and none of these reasons are what the package usually says.
1. The ingredient list takes one breath to read
Milk. Lime. Salt. That's it. After teaching you to turn bags around and squint at the fine print, it is a real relief to hand you something where there's nothing to catch.
2. What's actually in it is protein
Roughly two-thirds of the thing by weight, with very little fat. And the fermentation does something useful on the way — it eats most of the lactose — which is why dogs who can't handle a saucer of milk usually handle this without any drama.
3. Two weeks of having something to do
And this is the real one for me. Chewing is not a bad habit a dog needs broken. It's a job he's built for, and most dogs almost never get to do it. And a dog with nothing to work on finds his own project — usually your baseboards, occasionally the remote.
That's the same reason our daycare runs structured enrichment instead of just opening a door and letting them mill around. A busy dog is a calmer dog at five o'clock. A chew is that idea in your living room.
What I am not going to tell you is that it cleans his teeth. You'll see that claim on plenty of packaging. I don't have good evidence for it, and I'd rather be honest with you than sell you a benefit I can't back up. Which brings me to the hard part of this article.
WHERE I STAND — THE HARD PART
Hard chews can crack teeth. I'm not going to pretend otherwise just because we sell one.
If you go looking at what veterinary dentists say about hard chews, you'll find bones, antlers, hooves, nylon bones, and yak chews all sitting on the same caution list. You'd find that out eventually, and I'd rather you heard it from me.
Here's why it happens, because it helps to understand it. Your dog's tooth enamel is thin — somewhere between a tenth of a millimeter and about one millimeter. Yours goes up to about two and a half. So he's carrying a fraction of your armor. And behind that thin enamel is a bite that has been measured in one study at up to 1,394 newtons. Teeth in the lab give way around 1,281. Those two numbers are uncomfortably close, and that is basically the story of every cracked tooth I've ever heard about.
The tooth that usually goes is the big one at the back on top. And it often doesn't hurt in a way you'd notice. Dogs are stoic. They chew on the other side. And nobody knows for a year.
The test dentists use, and you can do it in the shop: press your thumbnail into it. If you can't leave a mark, and you can't flex it at all, it is harder than a tooth. That is true of a yak chew straight out of the wrapper. It is also true of marrow bones and half the things in the chew aisle.
So who shouldn't have one at all? The dog who doesn't chew so much as attack the one who tries to crush rather than gnaw. Any dog who has already broken a tooth, because he'll do it again. Seniors with worn or fragile teeth. And puppies still on baby teeth, which are thinner still.
And here's where I actually stand, plainly. For most dogs, I feel like two weeks of real mental work is worth a risk you can manage the same way a tennis ball is worth it, and a walk near a road is worth it. But "manage" is doing real work in that sentence, and the next section is how. If you'd rather not manage anything at all, that's a completely reasonable position, and I've got something softer for you further down.
HOW TO GET EVERY LAST BIT OUT OF ONE
Five rules. The first four are just ordinary good sense. The fifth is the one people email me about.
1. Buy it too big
Always. The most common mistake is sizing a chew to the dog's mouth. Size it so it's a little awkward. A chew that's too large is just inconvenient for him. A chew that's "the right size" is one he can eventually get behind his back teeth. When in doubt, go up.
2. Soak it first
Five to ten minutes in warm water before you hand it over. That's the chhurpi trick done the impatient way — they use time and their own mouths; you're using a mug. It softens the outer layer, which means less force on the teeth for the same amount of chewing. I'd do this every time, and especially on a new one.
3. Sessions, not all day
Twenty or thirty minutes, then it goes back up on the shelf. This is not about rationing his fun. Jaw fatigue is when the technique gets sloppy and the crushing starts. Also, it makes the chew something he looks forward to instead of furniture he ignores.
4. Be in the room
Not standing over him. Just in the room, with your coffee, where you can hear what's going on. Almost every chew accident I have ever heard about happened while everybody was somewhere else.
5. Retire the nub — and turn it into popcorn
The moment the piece is small enough to fit entirely inside his mouth, it is done being a chew and it has started being a hazard. Take it. Here's what to do with it instead of arguing:
1. Soak the nub in warm water for about 5 minutes.
2. Microwave it roughly 45 seconds (1000W). It puffs up like popcorn.
3. Let it cool 5 to 10 full minutes.
That third step is not optional, and I want to be clear about it. Most packages say two minutes. Two minutes is not enough — it comes out of there like molten cheese and it will burn a mouth. Give it ten, touch it yourself first, then hand it over.
What you get is light, crunchy, and completely harmless. Every last bit used, nothing thrown away, and the most dangerous ninety seconds of the whole chew turned into the best ninety seconds of his week. Dogs go a little crazy for it.
AND THEN THERE ARE ANTLERS
Antlers are the odd one here, because on calories they are almost a free lunch. Barely any of an antler ever gets swallowed — a dog scrapes at it and takes microscopic amounts so unlike biscuits and yak sticks, this one genuinely doesn't need counting.
They're also the guilt-free one, which surprises people. No animal is harmed for an antler. Deer and elk grow a full set every year and drop them in the snow every winter, and somebody walks out and picks them up. It is one of the few products in this whole industry that is just found.
And while we're here, because it was the best fact I learned putting this together: antler is the fastest-growing bone in the world. A bull elk lays down about an inch of it a day. He builds an entire skeleton's worth of hardware on his head in a summer, uses it for a season, and throws it away.
Now the honest part. An antler is the hardest object in this article by a comfortable margin, and it's the item veterinary dentists name most often when they talk about cracked teeth. Everything in the section above applies double: thumbnail test, right dog, in the room, and off the floor the moment it gets short.
If you're going to use one, the split ones are the kinder choice — the marrow side is softer, the dog gets to the interesting part sooner, and he spends less of the session trying to crack a rod of bone. A whole antler with a power chewer is the version I'd steer you away from.
Zero calories is a real advantage. It just isn't the only thing on the ledger.
IF HARD CHEWS AREN'T FOR YOUR DOG
Some of you got to the thumbnail test and quietly decided no, and I'm not going to talk you out of it. If your dog is eleven, or has already lost a tooth, or is the sort who tries to bite through things rather than work at them, then a hard chew is a bad trade and there's no cleverness that fixes it.
So here's what I'd hand you instead. I'd rather name something than leave you with a warning and no replacement.
Easy Chew Snaps are the ones we keep for exactly this dog. They're thin and soft enough to snap in half between your fingers — which is the whole design — and they run about ten calories a piece. Put that against the medium biscuit at forty and you can see the math doing you a favor: a twenty-pound dog's fifty-calorie day buys him five of these, or one cookie. And nothing in the bag is harder than his teeth.
For pocket-sized training rewards, freeze-dried liver Mojos still do that job better than anything about eleven calories a piece, four of them inside a small dog's whole day. More on treat math here: https://hotdiggitydogresort.com/blog/dog-treats-10-percent-rule
And the free version, because it works: a good stuffed rubber toy, frozen. Take a few tablespoons of his own dinner, wet it, pack it in, and put it in the freezer overnight. You get forty-five minutes of that same absorbed, problem-solving quiet that a chew buys you, it costs nothing off the top of his day because it is his day, and there is not a hard surface anywhere in it.
The yak chews live on the shelf at the resort rather than online — have a look next time you're in, and if you're unsure about sizing, just give us a call: (760) 745-9900.
THE BOTTOM LINE
How a chew ends matters more than how it starts. Yak chews you can finish safely; bully sticks finish you. Count the calories by how fast your dog works, write the date on it, soak it, supervise it, and retire the nub into popcorn. And if hard isn't for your dog — that's fine. Soft snaps, liver bits, or a frozen dinner toy will do the quiet work without gambling his teeth.
WANT THIS EVERY TUESDAY?
This started as Wagging Weekly — the note I send our clients every Tuesday on feeding, behavior, grooming, and canine health. No filler. Free. Subscribe: https://mailchi.mp/hotdiggitydogresort/sign-up
KEEP READING
How to Read a Dog Food Label: https://hotdiggitydogresort.com/blog/how-to-read-a-dog-food-label
Dog Treats and the 10% Rule: https://hotdiggitydogresort.com/blog/dog-treats-10-percent-rule
Dog Food Toppers and "Superfoods" — what held up when I looked: https://hotdiggitydogresort.com/blog/dog-food-toppers-superfoods-evidence
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
David DiLoreto is Certified in Pet Nutrition and co-owner of Hot Diggity Dog Resort in Escondido, California, which he has run for fourteen years alongside his wife Penny Master Groomer and Certified Animal Behaviorist. He is the author of The Long-Life Dog. Hot Diggity Dog Resort holds a 4.9-star rating on Google and was voted Escondido's Best Pet Groomer in 2025.
Book: https://a.co/d/04l5ZqUH
This article is educational and is not a substitute for veterinary advice. Talk with your veterinarian and a veterinary dentist if your dog has broken a tooth — before choosing hard chews for seniors, puppies, or power chewers.
