- Pet Nutrition Part 12: Rabbits, Guinea Pigs, Mice, Hamsters, and Rats
In other modules, you learned about feeding your pet appropriately, providing the correct type of diet, and what foods to avoid giving your pet. Now, you can understand how the seven types of nutrients: fiber, protein, water, fats, carbohydrates, minerals, and vitamins fit into species-specific diets.
12.1 Rabbits
Water is an element that is often overlooked for rabbits. We put down a water bowl and only remember to refill it when it gets empty. We forget that water should be consumed in certain amounts per day and that, like us, pets enjoy fresh water. For rabbits, the water requirement is going to change based on the humidity, temperature, and activity level of your rabbit. It can also change due to other environmental factors.
Typically, rabbits will consume 10 millimeters of water per 100 grams of body weight. In teaspoons, this would equate to eight per pound of body weight. A five-pound rabbit should receive 40 teaspoons of water a day.
You should make water readily available for your rabbit. Nursing rabbits also require more water than non-nursing rabbits. It is a good idea to provide water in a fountain or a bottle that you won't have to fill up several times throughout the day. You want to change and replace the water often, such as each day, to keep it fresh. Rabbits can also obtain water from the foods that they consume.
Proteins
Proteins are essential for nails, hair, muscles, and skin.
Rabbits process a type of bacteria through their colon, which produces protein. This protein can meet the rabbit's needs, as well as the consumption of stool because it is rich in the bacterial cells that produce protein in the colon.
Protein requirements in rabbits are highest during times of growth, lactation, and pregnancy. Protein is not needed as much for adults. Too much protein can actually cause your rabbit's kidneys to overwork, which can damage them. This is why most adult rabbit food sold in stores will be low in protein.
Fats
Rabbits also have a low-fat requirement. The best rabbit diet will be about 3% fat, with slightly higher levels during lactation. Excessive fats can lead to obesity in your rabbit.
Fiber
Rabbits need a high-fiber diet to prevent gastrointestinal diseases.
It is also necessary for the fermentation process in the cecum, which allows the bacterial cells to protein and vitamin B. A rabbit should get around 14% fiber in their diet. Older rabbits will require a higher amount of fiber.
A rabbit's diet should consist of large quantities of hay or dried or fresh grass to provide the necessary fiber. High-fiber pellets can also make up the diet.
Vitamins
Rabbits do require vitamins. These vitamins include A, D, E, K, C, and B complex. Even though your rabbits do require vitamins, you need to provide these vitamins in low doses. Most of the time, these vitamins are naturally included in the rabbit's food. Many plants also contain these vitamins.
Suppose your rabbit is deficient in appropriate nutrients. In that case, it will reflect in their reproductive performance, with low survival rates and offspring death. Adversely, toxicity can occur if there are too many vitamins provided. Alfalfa is considered one of the better foods to offer your rabbit for a stable diet; however, large amounts of alfalfa contain too much vitamin A. This can lead to other health problems, including liver disease.
When it comes to vitamins, you must speak with a vet about the appropriate amounts for the rabbit's current age. You may need to change food from baby rabbit food to adult food or add vitamin supplements depending on your rabbit's current health.
Minerals
Minerals are inorganic compounds. Most animals require 22 minerals to live a healthy life. Calcium and phosphorus are the most important for a healthy rabbit's diet. The ratio of calcium to phosphorus in your rabbit's diet is imperative for proper growth and reproduction.
For example, when calcium is too high, your rabbit can develop urinary stones or kidney damage. This is why commercial rabbit feeds are designed to provide the appropriate amounts of minerals.
Calcium is naturally found in alfalfa meal and alfalfa. Phosphorus is generally found in grain by-products like wheat. Grass hay is considerably lower in calcium than alfalfa, which can make it a better option for rabbits.
Commercial rabbit food is designed to provide the proper nutrients. If you do not wish to rely on this source, it is imperative to speak with your vet. Most pet food stores will sell pellets and hay for rabbits, with alfalfa as a treat. You have learned why alfalfa should be provided in limited amounts.
The basic diet for a one-year-old rabbit is 18-20% fiber and 14-16% protein. Pellets sold in pet food stores provide this correct amount. Adult rabbits need ¼ cup of protein, which is 10%, or you can give a lower amount as this can be better. High-fiber pellets are necessary for adults. Consider about 5 pounds of body weight will require a new level of fiber provided in their meal.
You should not provide your rabbit fruit, seed, or cereal because these are considered junk foods and can lead to bad bacteria. Hay has numerous benefits. You can provide hay as a chewing material as well as wooden chew toys. This helps your rabbit to stay healthy. Timothy hay, grass hays, and oats can also be provided to your bunnies as treats.
Rabbits don't naturally eat root vegetables or fruit. Source: rabbit.org
12.2 Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs are wonderful, small pets.
If you have never had a guinea pig, you may be wondering what the best source of nutrients is for your small critter.
Obviously, a pet store is going to recommend food, but are you sure they are providing the right nutrients?
As with rabbits, your pet needs seven nutrients. You need to make certain the food you feed your pet is supplying water, fiber, carbohydrates, protein, vitamins, minerals, and fats. As small animals, guinea pigs require less food in a day than larger animals. However, they have their own nutrient requirements. Guinea pigs can get these nutrient levels from Timothy hay, pellets, fruits, and vegetables.
Timothy hay is often used for guinea pig bedding. It might sound odd that your pet can eat and sleep on the same type of hay. Yet, when you think about it, guinea pigs have to chew the hay and form nests; thus, it is not really strange at all. A guinea pig has to be able to consume some of the hay in order to create a home, so it should be healthy for them and provide a good source of nutrients.
You can always change the type of hay you purchase for bedding and what you serve as a meal. There are different types of bedding, some of which they are less inclined to eat. If you are providing hay for bedding and food, you must have their food on a hay rack or in a food bowl. You do not want your guinea pig to eat soiled hay from the cage bottom.
If your guinea pig seems to suffer from diarrhea due to too much hay, there is a possibility of adding more plants. All it means is that your guinea pig has had too much fiber and that they need to balance out their diet with different foods. This is why your guinea pig needs more than just hay in their diet.
Fruits and Vegetables
For guinea pigs, fruits and vegetables are safe. Many of these can be found in your grocery store and served to your pet. However, you have to understand that fruits and vegetables need to be given in moderation. They are a supplement or an additive to their normal hay diet. Too many fruits and vegetables can reduce the lifespan of your little critter. Large amounts can lead to high glucose levels because of the high carbohydrates found in most fruits.
While fruits and vegetables can help with diarrhea caused by too much hay, you will also find diarrhea occurs with too many fruits and vegetables. Just increase the amount of hay they receive if this happens.
The best fruits and vegetables to feed your critter include:
• Apples
• Baby carrots
• Broccoli leaves
• Celery
• Grapes
• Blueberries
• Kale
• Spinach
• Tomatoes
• Kiwis
• Spinach
• Parsley
• Watermelon
• Peaches
Food Pellets
Stores provide commercial pellets for small animals.
Quality pellets are important. Low-quality pellets can lead to health problems later on.
When you shop for pellets, you need to find one that is 16% fiber and 20% protein.
Pellets also need to include vitamin C. Vitamin C is not something that guinea pigs produce naturally. If you cannot provide it in their pellet food, you can find it in fruits and vegetables. Speak with a vet if you feel your guinea pigs are not getting enough vitamin C. It may be possible to provide your pet with vitamin C tablets.
Guinea pigs require 10-15 mg of vitamin C each day.
Also, be careful to provide your guinea pig with only the food they will eat. Too many pellets or other food can lead to obesity. Most guinea pigs are prone to obesity, particularly when pellets are available to graze on all day long.
In a previous module, foods not to feed pets were examined. However, the module did not discuss these foods in relation to guinea pigs.
What to Avoid When Feeding Your Guinea Pig
You should never provide chocolate to any pet, even guinea pigs. Human sweet treats are not a good idea. Fruits and vegetables provide enough carbohydrates and sugars to your pet. You do not want to kill them because you started feeding them foods that they may or may not be able to digest but will increase their blood glucose level. Guinea pigs are herbivores.
You should not provide your guinea pig with meat. Dairy products are also not good for your pet.
There are certain foods you may feel would be great for your pet, like corn, iceberg lettuce, tomato leaves, potatoes, rhubarb, and raw beans. However, they can actually become extremely sick by being given these vegetables and fruits. These items contain elements that can lead to organ failure. Some are poisonous, and others will tear through the digestive system, causing harm over long-term use.
12.3 Mice
Mice can be one of two things: your pet or food for your pet.
Mice are very good at reproducing quickly, which is why many laboratories have also used mice to study biological processes.
Keeping mice healthy, whether they are your pet or food for your pet, is imperative.
In a later module, you will learn about reptiles, which are primary pets that feed off mice and other small rodents. You will also discover that keeping your pet's nutrients at a proper level is solely dependent on what you feed your reptile; therefore, what you feed their food directly relates to the nutrients provided.
If you are feeding mice as a source of food, you need to make certain they are receiving the proper nutrients to remain healthy until they become food. As a pet, you always want to ensure they are getting what they need to live their short life. Mice live for only two years; some can make it to three years.
Their lifespan has little bearing on the nutrients provided in terms of longevity. Feeding the proper nutrients means your mouse is not going to die in six months, a year, or less than two years in most cases. However, genetics will also play a large part in your mouse's life. If there is a genetic issue, your mouse might die much earlier.
Nutrients are just a portion of your mouse's life. While it is an important part, you also have to maintain the area in which they live. This goes for hamsters and rats, too; you need to provide a clean cage, change out their bedding once a week, and do a massive cage cleaning at least once a month. You also need to wash their food bowls every day, provide new water every day, and keep the food and sleeping areas separate from where they are eliminated to prevent any disease. An unclean cage can result in eye infections, tail problems, and internal health issues.
You should be aware that mice do not have a catch-all diet.
This means that some mice will require a special diet versus the mouse food sold in pet stores. As you will see, each mouse has a different appearance and can be from a different genetic line. These differences can require a change in their diet to remain healthy. It is a good idea to pick from specific colonies when buying your mice to ensure you are getting the behavior and diet you want from your pets.
Protein is required by mice. Your mouse needs at least 13% protein in their daily diet. High protein can cause hot spots, which are itchy locations that your mouse will continually scratch. It means that you also need to make certain that you are not feeding them too much protein.
If you see a lot of scratching, hair loss, and skin problems on your mouse, it could be a result of too much protein. It is better to go a little lower than 13% for a good choice than going higher than 13%.
Meat protein is the best source to provide your mouse. There are other sources of protein, such as protein from nuts. However, protein from chicken, fish, and insects is much better than providing plant proteins. Plant proteins can also lead to allergic reactions in your mice. You definitely need to feed crickets and mealworms from a reputable seller and not just catch an insect near your home. You never know what insects have fed near your home that could adversely affect your pet mouse.
You can also give your mouse treats. There are pet food store treats that you could supply your mouse; however, it is usually better to stick with healthy foods that can also be considered a mouse treat. Vegetables like lettuce, carrots, and peas make your mouse happy. If you feed too many treats, their stools can turn runny, so make certain you are watching their elimination. You can also feed cooked meats like fish, turkey, chicken, and pork to your pet mouse. Cooked and uncooked pasta and rice are two options for adding grain to your mouse. Oats and eggs are also some treats you can feed your mouse on occasion. You want to ensure you are giving your mouse a well-rounded diet, with commercial pet food as the main source, or at least a food that is similar in nutrients and percentages.
Mice can die if they are deprived of water for even short periods. Source: marinpethospital.com
12.4 Hamsters
Hamsters need a balanced diet, just like any pet.
The primary nutrients in their diet need to be proteins, vitamins, and minerals. You also want to ensure your pet hamster has unlimited water that is freshened each day.
Carbohydrates and fats are acceptable options for energy, which helps your hamster stay warm. However, if you feed too many carbohydrates and fats, you could lead them into a dangerous situation.
Like humans, most mammals can only survive with a minimal amount of carbohydrates and fats before their arteries become clogged or they gain weight from the foods the body cannot break down. Your body, as well as a hamster's, has only so much ability to break down carbohydrates and fats before the body can turn them into waste and eliminate them.
When you do feed carbohydrates and fats, be sure you are feeding them barley, oats, corn, or wheat. You do not want to feed any hamster yeast, sugar, milk, or potatoes. These four foods are on the avoidance list, as they can be toxic to your hamster. Barley, oats, wheat, and corn are healthier, natural foods that can provide energy without being detrimental to your hamster, at least in small doses.
Proteins are very important for the body's growth and tissue-building process.
The same can be said of hamsters. You want to supply protein to young hamsters and gestating hamsters. For hamsters, a good source of protein includes barley, corn, beans, oats, nuts, peas, and wheat. Hamsters are more herbivores than carnivores; however, they are still considered omnivores. People often mistake hamsters for herbivores, so they provide a fruit and vegetable diet versus one with animal meat. You can give your hamsters, fish, turkey, chicken, and low-fat meats. Make certain the meat protein is always cooked before you place it in their food bowl.
Vitamins in small amounts are necessary. By feeding appropriate fruits and vegetables, you ensure your hamster is receiving what they need with regard to vitamins and minerals. Again, you always want to avoid toxic foods. Most other foods can be provided as long as you verify they are healthy for your hamster.
Hamsters can be given certain treats. These treats should not be given often, but in small amounts, they can make for a happy hamster. Eggs are high in protein, and when cooked and given in small doses, they can be healthy for your hamster. Fish liver oil is high in vitamins A and D. A few drops on grain once a week or bi-weekly provide healthy vitamins.
Mixed bird seed usually has grains, seeds, and fruits, which are healthy for your hamster within limitations. About a teaspoon each week can provide a healthy snack for your hamster.
12.5 Rats
Rats are omnivorous, so they eat plants and animals.
Wild rats tend to eat nuts, grains, seeds, vegetables, insects, fruits, worms, dead animals, eggs, and frogs. They also eat fish, birds, reptiles, and other small mammals they can catch and kill. Rats get a lot of nutrients from a variety of sources. Thus, when you are raising a rat, you have to be able to provide the nutrients they need from foods that are available to you.
Generic, commercial rodent mixes are not going to provide all the nutrients your rat needs. They do provide certain vitamins and minerals that might be hard to find in other foods available; however, rats tend to eat their favorite snack out of the mix and ignore all the other good ingredients.
If you are feeding a mix to your rat, 80% of their mix should be used, with the other 20% as fresh veggies and fruits. In these mixes, make certain your rat is receiving at least 16-18% protein.
Pregnant or nursing females and babies need more protein.
Rats also have forbidden foods they should never be given. These include green potatoes, green bananas, mangos, poppy seeds, raw sweet potato, tofu, wild insects, and dried corn. These foods can have toxic effects as well as lead to certain diseases specific to rats.
A good list of foods to feed your rat include dry vegetables, pasta twists, green split peas, cherries, pumpkin seeds, dried cranberries, strawberries, grapes, bananas, pears, and apples.
12.6 Protecting Your Small Pets
For many pet owners, it is nice to have their animals out of their cages.
You want to cuddle the furry little animal or watch it run around a little and get exercise. It is only natural that you want your pet to be healthy. One of the biggest dangers with regard to small pets is allowing them to run around someplace that has not been pet-proofed.
If you leave out food, such as chocolate bars, vegetables, or other eatables that your pet might find tasty, the chances are they will see them when your back is turned. If food has fallen from your plate, pick it up, vacuum it, and make certain that your animal is not going to be able to get near it.
By keeping your pet in a room that is already pet-proof, you can avoid major health concerns. You can also limit what your pet chews on simply because it happens to be there, such as stuffing in a couch, pillow, or paper.
12.7 Keeping Your Small Pet Cage Clean
Rats, hamsters, and mice are usually given a home in a fish tank or a similar-sized setup.
The cages often have very small holes for air to get into, but prevent the animal from getting out of the cage. Glass is usually a better side option than plastic due to scratching. Many hamsters, mice, and rats scratch at plastic, marking it, and they could potentially hurt themselves. With Glass, it stays cleaner, and it will be scratch-resistant. The more cages you have for your rodent, the better. There are a lot of hamster cages that can be increased in size from small bedroom areas to larger play areas. They are usually connected by tubes, which can have corners and climbing areas to help give your rodent exercise.
When it comes to nutrition, you know you have to feed your pet rodent appropriately, but the other part of that is exercise. Providing enough stimulation for these smart little critters is essential. Various tubes, corners, climbing areas, wheels, and balls can keep your critter from scratching on the side of the cage. It will also keep your rodent healthy and fit.
A sedentary rodent can just as easily become overweight as any sedentary mammal.
With multiple sections to their home, you can also close off one area while you clean out the rest of the cage. This allows you to clean without disturbing your rodent. You also have the opportunity to clean with soap and water, ensuring the entire area is sanitized and dry before you allow your rodent back inside. When you are finished, you can let your rodent back into the other places and then clean the remaining section.
You should do a complete cleaning at least once a month. Each week, you need to change out the bedding you have provided. Also, make certain you are providing enough bedding for your rodent to lie on and make nests with. By providing more places for your rodents to go, they will have a designated area to eliminate, sleep, and eat. They can also start hiding their food all over the place or just bury their food bowl.
12.8 Water For Your Small Pets
Providing water is essential, but the type of water you supply is just as important.
Tap water can have chemicals that are dangerous to your animal.
Tap water is usually chlorinated or chemically purified, which removes vitamins and minerals and adds in things that may not be healthy unless it is boiled first.
A good rule is if you do not like drinking your tap water, then do not give it to your pets. Instead, provide spring water for your pets. Spring water contains minerals and vitamins that were created naturally, which are useful to your pet. Spring water comes directly from underground springs, and most rats, hamsters, and mice in the wild drink from rivers, lakes, and streams fed by these springs. If nothing else, you should provide purified tap water, where you have hooked a filter to the tap and allowed it to be filtered of any toxic pests or chemicals that could harm your pet rodent.
Following these guidelines will ensure a healthy pet for the two or three years they have to live.
Part 12 Summary
Your rabbit and guinea pig need to be fed appropriate food.
Giving your pet anything you have in the fridge that can be considered healthy may not be as healthy as you think.
There are certain fruits and vegetables that guinea pigs and rabbits should never be given, such as those that are too high in fiber and sugar and contain minerals that are toxic to small pets.
If you are ever in doubt about what to feed your rabbit or guinea pig, look at the label on food commercially produced for them. Examine the ingredient levels and learn the healthy percentages.
Mice, rats, and hamsters need vitamins, minerals, water, and protein for a healthy diet.
All three of these rodent pets can eat carbohydrates and fats in moderation. However, each one of these animals needs a variation of nutrient percentages.
Mice need 13% protein, while rats need at least 18% protein in their diets.
Mice, hamsters, and rats are omnivores. Still, many tend to think of them as herbivores, which is why you should be aware that not all small rodent food will have enough protein and other ingredients for the type of rodent pet you have. There isn't a one-size-fits-all approach to rodent foods.
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